Gevrey Chambertin is the largest wine producing village in Burgundy, and can boast nine out of the twenty-four Cote de Nuits grand crus. Its classic expression is deep in [...]
Gevrey Chambertin is the largest wine producing village in Burgundy, and can boast nine out of the twenty-four Cote de Nuits grand crus. Its classic expression is deep in color, firm-bodied and tannic in structure – rich and masculine, but with a touch of the fleshy and the exotic. It can be a bit unyielding in youth, but generous all the same. There is a pronounced earthiness, the degree of which is amplified as you go up the hierarchy of vineyard sites. The best wines can develop into the most complete and long-lived Pinot Noir examples in the world, largely due to the iron-rich clay soils, depending on whether the vineyard is located on either the steep slopes or the rich soils.
Fourrier Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2009
Domaine Fourrier has a long history in Gevrey Chambertin extending over four generations. It is one of the most prodigious estates in the village, with holdings throughout the most heralded vineyards. Taking the reins in 1994, Jean-Marie Fourrier combines the traditions of his father and uncle, his experience gained while working with Henri Jayer and Domaine Drouhin in Oregon, and his own clear sense of style. The results of his meticulous work are very appealing wines, each of which shows the character of its provenance quite clearly. The wines are bright in color but not exceptionally deep, with very pure red fruit flavors and aromas.
Fourrier’s old vines come from the climat Les Champs Perrieres, which start in the mouth of the Combe de Lavaux and follow the line of the hillside into Brochon. When compared to the vineyards located around the grand crus, here you will find more structure and often more density – they tend to need more time in the cellar.
Frederic Esmonin Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Estournelles St. Jacques 2013
Domaine Frederic Esmonin has been farming vineyards for many generations and selling their fruit to negociants Drouhin, Jadot, and Leroy. Frederic’s father, Andre, was the highly respected grower who produced the grand cru Mazis Chambertin for the Hospice de Beaune. Today, the domaine produces wine with excellent concentration at every level – very attractive and finely structured; rich in color and virile.
Esmonin owns the lion’s share of Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Estournelles St.Jacques – it’s high on the hill but faces directly south and gets lots of sun. The soil is a little sandy with a clay and limestone base that gives finesse but good concentration too. They are very happy with the old vines there as they always deliver small concentrated grapes. Their parcel of Ruchottes sits directly below the Clos des Ruchottes of Armand Rousseau.
Faiveley Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Combes aux Moines 2005
Since the domaine was founded in 1825, the Faiveley family has dedicated the major part of their resources to buying vineyards situated on the best slopes in Burgundy. They believe in strictly limited yields and carefully controlled production – meticulous methods that allow for wines that mature well. The wines’ complexity and longevity are ensured by the high average age of their vines, and they are outstandingly clean, rich, balanced, and concentrated. Francois Faiveley, who has recently retired, is succeeded by his son Erwan. The change of generation, enhanced by the arrival of Bernard Hervet as Managing Director, has made the business more dynamic.
Faiveley is the largest owner of Combes aux Moines, a well-known vineyard at the top and around the lip of the combe in the direction of Brochon, separated from the Clos St.Jacques by Cazetiers – it is typically the most rustic offering of the three, but still rates in the group of premier cru vineyards. Thin soil and plenty of limestone are the main vineyard characteristics.
Joseph Roty Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Fontenys 2010
In a village where there is no shortage of talented, dedicated vignerons, Joseph Roty’s name goes at the top of the list. Following his passing in 2008, the domaine has since been operated by his talented son Philippe, who seamlessly adopted the methods of his father’s winemaking. Roty’s style in most vintages produce deep wines that start out brooding and austere, but with unmistakable purity, balance and superb expression of terroir. Compared to other finesse and perfumed Burgundies, Roty’s big and darkly-hued wines stand out and will age extremely well, and have a tendency to harmoniously synthesize with bottle age, and deliver the best of what Gevrey can offer.
Fonteneys is a relatively small cru, sited just below the grand cru Ruchottes on the flat land adjoining the village – rocky, with a paucity of soil. Roty’s vines here are so old that they were planted prior to record-keeping that began in the 1870s. It is always a powerful rendition of Gevrey Chambertin that requires some time in the cellar, but with age is one of the great wines of the village.
(Thursday) 5:00 pm - 9:00 pm PST
234 Townsend Street, San Francisco, CA 94107